strongDad
Level 6 Valued Member
Hi All,
I'm new to Pavel's ideas and noticed that this forum seems full of great posts and a supportive environment. I'm doing S+S and want to apply these ideas to my sport specific training.
So here goes my three questions:
First, how do you use strength training ideas and GTG on timed exercised (vs. repitions). Take the hollow position hold for example, would I do GTG with some percentage of my max time? What percentage?
Second question. How do I apply Pavel strength methods to hang board training.
As a climber I've had good success doing assisted dead hangs on a hangboard--a small pullup board made of various sized climbing holds. The difficulty is adjustable by either using ever smaller hand holds or by rigging up a pulley and weights to provide assistance or just adding weight.
I used to do follow this protocol 1x/ week as follows:
Do 3 sets per grip where weights progressively increase like baseline (BL), BL+10lbs, BL+20lbs.
One set consists of holding a hold for 7 seconds, with 3 seconds timed rest for 6-7 reps for a given hold. After the set you take 3 min rest and move on to the next grip. After completing all grip positions (about 6 grips) you move on to set #2. And so on.
Usually by the end your forearms are mega pumped, it's hard to open and close the hand. If we assume that 7s is a good time for a hang, how would I modify the weights, reps and rest and order to be more effective at increasing strength.
My last question is regarding a climbing specific power training method called campus boards. For campus training imagine a ladder made of thin strips of wood. You do a fast dynamic pullup and (if you're very powerful) catch air and latch onto the rungs high above. It's like the pullup equivalent to clapping pushups but with tiny finger grips instead of a bar.
Okay, so currently I can only make it to the climbing gym (that has this set up) once every two weeks. I usually do that campus training as a quick finisher when it's time to leave. I can do maybe 5-8x reps without rest before I'm toast. Would it be better to GTG during the 2hr climbing session by doing a few reps every 20-30min.
Thank you all in advance!
strongDad
I'm new to Pavel's ideas and noticed that this forum seems full of great posts and a supportive environment. I'm doing S+S and want to apply these ideas to my sport specific training.
So here goes my three questions:
First, how do you use strength training ideas and GTG on timed exercised (vs. repitions). Take the hollow position hold for example, would I do GTG with some percentage of my max time? What percentage?
Second question. How do I apply Pavel strength methods to hang board training.
As a climber I've had good success doing assisted dead hangs on a hangboard--a small pullup board made of various sized climbing holds. The difficulty is adjustable by either using ever smaller hand holds or by rigging up a pulley and weights to provide assistance or just adding weight.
I used to do follow this protocol 1x/ week as follows:
Do 3 sets per grip where weights progressively increase like baseline (BL), BL+10lbs, BL+20lbs.
One set consists of holding a hold for 7 seconds, with 3 seconds timed rest for 6-7 reps for a given hold. After the set you take 3 min rest and move on to the next grip. After completing all grip positions (about 6 grips) you move on to set #2. And so on.
Usually by the end your forearms are mega pumped, it's hard to open and close the hand. If we assume that 7s is a good time for a hang, how would I modify the weights, reps and rest and order to be more effective at increasing strength.
My last question is regarding a climbing specific power training method called campus boards. For campus training imagine a ladder made of thin strips of wood. You do a fast dynamic pullup and (if you're very powerful) catch air and latch onto the rungs high above. It's like the pullup equivalent to clapping pushups but with tiny finger grips instead of a bar.
Okay, so currently I can only make it to the climbing gym (that has this set up) once every two weeks. I usually do that campus training as a quick finisher when it's time to leave. I can do maybe 5-8x reps without rest before I'm toast. Would it be better to GTG during the 2hr climbing session by doing a few reps every 20-30min.
Thank you all in advance!
strongDad
