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Recommendations/Reviews/FS/WTB Adjustable Kettlebells?

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I picked up a pair of shot loadable globe kettlebells years ago from Atomic athletics. I've been wondering if this will make the TGU journey specifically progression a lot easier. They are 25 LBS. empty with a max around 200 lbs. filled with lead shot a piece. I've noticed when I start with them empty and add a little each workout the progressions in wait is not noticeable at all. Another approach, just wondering if anyone else on here has worked with shot loadable bells and what their thoughts on them are?
 
I don't think you should worry. I've duct taped a 2kg weight onto my 24kg and been using it for snatches, cleans and presses and get ups with out the additional weight moving an inch. I think that professionally made adjustable kettlebells would be even more sturdy.
 
I picked up a pair of shot loadable globe kettlebells years ago from Atomic athletics. I've been wondering if this will make the TGU journey specifically progression a lot easier. They are 25 LBS. empty with a max around 200 lbs. filled with lead shot a piece. I've noticed when I start with them empty and add a little each workout the progressions in wait is not noticeable at all. Another approach, just wondering if anyone else on here has worked with shot loadable bells and what their thoughts on them are?
Add weight in tiny increments is not the StrongFirst way.

I've owned shot-loaded kettlebells. Not much to say about them - they are as you'd think they are. I prefer to own a few, fixed sizes.

-S-
 
We recommend noticeable increases in weight.

Does PTTP really recommend 5 lb increases? My working weights are in the 115 to 155 kg range and I change 10 kg at a time.

-S-
Ok, understood.

I am too lazy to re-read PTTP in it's entirety but the graphics that explain how to set up your cycle are using 5 pound jumps. Granted, experience reigns supreme and the examples in the book only go up to 230 pounds or so. But IMO even when following SF training methods it is worth keeping in mind that the jumps between KBs can be pretty extreme compared to other training tools. And SF does recommend programs that use smaller jumps in various programs. ReLoad for example uses 2-5% of your 1RM for your weekly jumps etc. I don't know how 100kg vs 105kg feel on your back for someone with a 140kg 1RM.

Just from reading this site and Pavel's books it never occurred to me that "large" jumps are an integral part of SF methodology.
 
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But IMO even when following SF training methods it is worth keeping in mind that the jumps between KBs can be pretty extreme compared to other training tools.
The point isn't to make the jumps "extreme", just to make them large enough to really get your attention. Our approach to barbell training mirrors our approach to kettlebell training, although we acknowledge there can be a time and a place for smaller plates, more on this below.

I don't know how 100kg vs 105kg feel on your back for someone with a 140kg 1RM.
Reload is our take on an American approach that does use smaller increase. However, here's an American champion powerlifter who's been mentioned in multiple Pavel books, Jack Reape:

https://www.t-nation.com/training/more-tips-from-the-weightroom-floor said:
This is the workout I take people through if I'm trying to teach a new bench groove or working with them the first time. Ethan Reeve at Wake Forest calls it the "Climbing Method." Pick an exercise and a number of reps, then keep jumping up in fairly equal increments until you PR or can't go any higher.

The offensive lineman I trained with during those workouts just threw on pairs of 45s set after set. Squats: 135x5, 225x5, 315x5, 405x5, 495x5, 585x5. Bench Press 135x5, 225x5, 315x5, 405x5, 455x5. Then he went and played basketball. This approach is fast and simple and basically a derivative of 5x5.

...

In my humble opinion, those 1.25s are for world records, not for gym use. In fact, for most serious lifters, 20 pound jumps are much better and the minimal acceptable standard.

To discourage whining and substandard, embarrassing decisions by anybody and everybody including myself, I have painted the 2.5 and 5 pound weights in my gym neon pink. Yep, if that 5 to 10 pound increment or PR is all you can handle, then slap that pink plate on and go for it.

Although I may not have much in common with Jack, as someone with a 160 kg deadlift 1RM, I can tell you that for me the difference between 100 kg and 105 kg isn't worth bothering with. Nor is the difference between 120 and 125 kg. I go 115, 125, 135, 145, 155 in my deadlift sessions. After 155, I'll sometimes use 157.5 which means 1.25 kg plates because that's nearing my PR levels and I lift sparingly in that range in training.
Just from reading this site and Pavel's books it never occurred to me that "large" jumps are an integral part of SF methodology.

Our interpretations differ, sir.

-S-
 
@Steve_Freides: I didn't want to make an argument against large jumps. I was just trying to point out that SF does provide training information that recommends making jumps in the low single digit range. Having never been to a SF seminar that explains SF methodology fully I cannot comment on why Pavel and other authors do provide program with 5 pound jumps but you and Jack Reape consider such small jumps not worth bothering with.
 
@Steve_Freides: I didn't want to make an argument against large jumps. I was just trying to point out that SF does provide training information that recommends making jumps in the low single digit range. Having never been to a SF seminar that explains SF methodology fully I cannot comment on why Pavel and other authors do provide program with 5 pound jumps but you and Jack Reape consider such small jumps not worth bothering with.
Here's an explanation:

 
Any metallurgists around? I wonder if we could MacGyver a heavier solution. If those weights are cast iron, is there a metal that is significantly heavier?
I sat and did the math one day, it would be quite easy to mold a lead solid weight using the iron plates as a template in plaster or other mold material to create a one piece lead weight to bring the bell weight to 36-40kg. IIRC even if all the iron plates were molded in lead it still wouldn't reach 48kg. It's easy enough to calculate the volume of the plates based on the density of iron and extrapolate out what the stack would weigh in lead. The lead weight would probably need to be molded around a steel pipe to avoid the threaded portion chewing it up over time. Powder coating it would probably alleviate the hazard of lead.

Edit- The 20kg stack of iron plates inside the 12kg shell if reproduced exactly in one piece of lead would weigh 28.8kg. Added to the 12kg shell, that would give you a 40.8kg bell. You could make the stack heavier by rounding the edges of the mold to add more material between the steps on the plates. It wouldn't get you to 48kg though. Using a lead alloy instead of pure lead would probably get you right at 40kg.

I have seen people buy a cheap 16kg comp bell, use a blowtorch to burn out all the fiberglass filling and then fill the bell with molten lead to make a 48kg bell. Not particularly difficult if you have the tools and lead handy.

I have two Titan adjustables that I love, when I get strong enough to need more than 32kg for double bell work, I'll figure it out.
 
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I sat and did the math one day, it would be quite easy to mold a lead solid weight using the iron plates as a template in plaster or other mold material to create a one piece lead weight to bring the bell weight to 36-40kg. IIRC even if all the iron plates were molded in lead it still wouldn't reach 48kg. It's easy enough to calculate the volume of the plates based on the density of iron and extrapolate out what the stack would weigh in lead. The lead weight would probably need to be molded around a steel pipe to avoid the threaded portion chewing it up over time. Powder coating it would probably alleviate the hazard of lead.

Edit- The 20kg stack of iron plates inside the 12kg shell if reproduced exactly in one piece of lead would weigh 28.8kg. Added to the 12kg shell, that would give you a 40.8kg bell. You could make the stack heavier by rounding the edges of the mold to add more material between the steps on the plates. It wouldn't get you to 48kg though. Using a lead alloy instead of pure lead would probably get you right at 40kg.

I have seen people buy a cheap 16kg comp bell, use a blowtorch to burn out all the fiberglass filling and then fill the bell with molten lead to make a 48kg bell. Not particularly difficult if you have the tools and lead handy.

I have two Titan adjustables that I love, when I get strong enough to need more than 32kg for double bell work, I'll figure it out.
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I have those same bells and have thought about how to make them heavier. You might be able to get there by pouring molten lead into the handle side to fill a portion of it fully, say 12 kg worth. Then use the iron plates that came with the bell to fill the remaining space to adjust up from there. That might give you a bell that's adjustable from 24-36kg bell or so. With lead plates, maybe 24-44kg?

Beyond that I think you need at least some of the plates made in tungsten.
 
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