Other/Mixed Climbing training during lockdown

[Jordan Vaughan]

Firstly, I hope everyone is well and keeping safe during this time.

Secondly, I am wandering if we have any climbers and boulderers on the forum. I would like some get some advice and hear what others are doing to maintain specific finger strength and climbing qualities.

Currently I have added weighted pull-ups, ring dips and finger boarding to my routine

I would like to think that my general grip strength is strong as I have double over handed x2.5kg bw deadlift so I guess using my finger board would benefit me during this time.

I have been bouldering for a little under a year and have climbed V6/7 - I accredit the strong first principles for giving me a great starting point and fast scope for progression.

Any help or advice would be greatly received!

 

[offwidth]

Well... your fingers can never be too strong (at least that what Sonnie Trotter told me), so hang boarding drills should be your staple during these times. Although perfecting technique will get you far further in the long run. Albeit difficult to do if you rely on a climbing gym. Is real climbing outdoors possible for you? (Social Distancing of course)

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[pet']

Hello,

Maybe this can interest climbers here. This is a protocol to assess strength in different areas. From there it is possible to work on our weaknesses.

There are 'notes' in the video description.



Kind regards,

Pet'

 

[Pachatoma]

Maybe this can interest climbers here. This is a protocol to assess strength in different areas. From there it is possible to work on our weaknesses.

I tried it today ! It was quite fun since I never did such things before.

I have climbed very few times last months without doing direct finger training and this test revealed that I have still rather strong fingers (I did not tested before, but I scored higher than I thought I would). This might reveal that finger strength is easily retained in case of training interruption, I do not know if others have experienced the same thing.

And as far as bouldering goes, I feel that ring routines can be good training for big moves boulders. For instance : Muscle-up --> L-sit --> Forward Roll --> Skin the Cat --> Inverted Hang. You go through various positions with relaxation / contraction, you can rest in some positions... Of course, the finger involvement is minimal, and a hangboarding routine might be a good addition !

 

[kenaces]

I just watched that Magnus video this afternoon and was thinking of running through his "tests" next week. I suspect the hangboard will be my weakness as I have never done any serious finger training(other than climbing 2-3 days a week).

@OP I am lucky that local climbing gyms have reopened but when they were closed I worked on mobility, general strength, and losing a little weight.

 

[offwidth]

Hangboard training definitely works....
I used it a lot when the gyms were closed and when it was really too hot to climb outside (or forest fire restrictions)
Gym is open now (for the time being) and the weather is perfect to climb on real rock.