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Other/Mixed Mountain Strong

Other strength modalities (e.g., Clubs), mixed strength modalities (e.g., combined kettlebell and barbell), other goals (flexibility)
Yep. Another ‘last problem’ cracked...

Everyone is familiar with the so-called Seven Summits, (almost a dime a dozen who has climbed them all) but not as many are as familiar with the Seven Hardest. i.e. the hardest summit on each continent (open for some debate of course what constitutes ’hardest’). I’m not sure if one person has tagged all of them. And almost assuredly not winter ascents.
 
Hello,

Same here, I would be curious to see his training.

However, even if I do not minimize this achievement (a lot of hard and smart work I would be never be capable of) I'd like to underline two things:
- he is a former gurkha
- he is a former SBS (Special Boat Service*)

Then, he is used to move in high altitude under load. To a certain extent, this kind of way of life probably lead to physiological adaptation.

*Special Forces of UK Royal Marine. Part of their instruction is shared with SAS, but afterwards, they do some sort of dive / water specialization

Kind regards,

Pet'
 
TrailNRG said:
Just saw that Uphill has a new program, Chamonix, and it seems like an interesting minimalist option. I find that I blend elements of SF, Uphill, Dan John and Rob Shaul’s programs these days based on needs. One thing is for sure, TINSTAAFL, but many programs will work if you carry a solid base. ;)

Anyone been out in the wilds of late. We’ve lucked into some snow in the mid-Atlantic so I’ve been getting in some turns on the boards with my family. The hiking, cycling, strength base has been paying dividends.
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Traveled form Ohio to do a couple days of ice climbing and skiing in Ouray and Telluride.
 
I feel that managing hand and grip fatigue is the crux of training for and climbing hard. It is an interesting conversation that I see rarely attempted.

@Tigger out of curiosity, what are your snatch and s&s weights in relation to your body weight and how hard are you climbing?
 
Ryan Johnson said:
I feel that managing hand and grip fatigue is the crux of training for and climbing hard. It is an interesting conversation that I see rarely attempted.

@Tigger out of curiosity, what are your snatch and s&s weights in relation to your body weight and how hard are you climbing?
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I might have a different perspective on this but here goes....
I find that peoples technique fails them far before their grip ever does in climbing. Good technique, movement, gear placement head space, and sequence reading will get one pretty far before they really need to worry about grip and pull strength. Nothing against grip strength, but often times (a strong grip) will mask poor technique. That will only get you so far. I change my thinking on this every so often, but maybe mid 5.12 (for me anyway) is where I start to consider grip being an issue. Obviously highly dependent upon climbing type. Slabs and cracks typically not needing as much grip strength.

If a person can competently lead 5.12 on trad then they can climb a whole lot of stuff the world over

All that being said.... if one feels compelled to strength train for rock climbing, then the fingers (grip) are the first place I would turn.

(Disclaimer... I don’t sport climb except in the gym...)
 
I completely agree with you. I have long suspected that any reasonably fit human can climb 512, it comes down to desire and the ability to learn and fail. This is why i asked Tigger how hard he was climbing. Climbing and training are both fatiguing and the loss of grip strength is indicative of under recovery. When you try things that are close to your actual ability to hold holds and with good technique are using a surprisingly high amount of full body tension, ANY supplemental work has to not go too far down the path of hand/grip fatigue.

Applying the StrongFirst training principles has totally changed my ability to be resilient against the forces i exert upon my body while trying hard (for me) routes and boulders. As a historically 'weak' person, i have not gone through a season without injury since 2007, which is around the time I started climbing 513 with regularity. A big reason for this is my mind and desire often force my body to accept stress it cannot tolerate or recover from. This is played out in both projects (sport or boulders) or in the supplemental training for climbing. Fingers crossed, but so far so good on this year!

I have been hangboarding almost every day for the last two years and that has totally changed the game for my weak 'piece of s***' hands. The idea was to just 'warm up' on the hangboard every day instead of using it to 'go hard.' This has been revolutionary for not only building strength but also being resilient. Sort of a GTG for the hands and fingers. I now am doing it morning and night and the change is dramatic.

In the summer of 2018 i found KB and shortly thereafter started my S&S journey with the 8 and 12k bells feeling like adversaries. A few starts and stops along the way (V2.0 helped a lot!). Last spring we had a pretty long wet period and I picked up the bells after many months of neglect, the change in a few shorts weeks of how i felt on the rock sold me on the S&S way, and that was with just using the 16! By oct 2020 I was doing a full session with the 24k and so far this season I haven't been in a position where i felt like i was going to 'break' from trying hard, which is a complete change from my former self.
 
offwidth said:
I find that peoples technique fails them far before their grip ever does in climbing. Good technique, movement, gear placement head space, and sequence reading will get one pretty far before they really need to worry about grip and pull strength. Nothing against grip strength, but often times (a strong grip) will mask poor technique.
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A small anecdote on technique importance. Even when working with CoC grippers, fixing technique can take someone from not being able to close a gripper to repping it in about 30 minutes.
It also is nice that leverage doesn't diminish when you are tired like brute strength does.
 
silveraw said:
A small anecdote on technique importance. Even when working with CoC grippers, fixing technique can take someone from not being able to close a gripper to repping it in about 30 minutes.
It also is nice that leverage doesn't diminish when you are tired like brute strength does.
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Do you have any gripper technique videos to recommend? I've been on the brink of bagging the #2 for a while - I can close it confidently for singles on the right but only about 60% of the time on the left. I'm sure my technique could be improved.

I could probably close it consistently if I adopted an easier narrow competition set, but since I only compete with myself, I'm not really interested in that.
 
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