patterner
Level 5 Valued Member
I agree with the sentiment that, broadly, strength is rarely a limiting factor for climbing, but finger strength certainly can be, especially at the higher levels of the sport (not saying I'm even within spitti---err Brett Favre hail mary pass distance of that), but I suspect that most climbers could gainfully employ finger an increase in finger strength to increase their enjoyment of the sport.Being somewhat 'old school' and decidedly curmudgeonly I am a bit skeptical. Strength is seldom the limiting factor in (rock) climbing performance. Technique and head space are. Climbers wanting to improve should focus on that. Not only will they get better, they will be less prone to injury. That being said.... I can see the use of occlusion training for injury rehab. (similar I suppose to Voodoo flossing) If a climber does need strength improvements then for sure finger strength is the prime area to focus on. It will be interesting to see how this progresses. (I change my views on this from time to time... but I think lead climbing 5.12d trad is very doable without extensive 'strength training'...)
The main interest in BFR for climbers is that the grip muscles are fantastically easy to overtrain, and this shows promise as a way to train them hard without also training heavy and risking pulley strains or other injuries.